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SKU:00061NEMNJ12738
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At a Glance:
Design: Native American turquoise cluster squash blossom necklace with bell-shaped blossoms
Stone: Natural turquoise snake-eye cabochons
Color: Polychrome turquoise in sky-blue, robin’s egg blue, and celadon greens
Accent: Distinctive bell-shaped blossoms with stones framing each opening
Metal: .925 sterling silver (unmarked)
Artist: Attributed to Bernard Bowekaty | Zuni artist
Era: Circa 1940s–1960s
Status: Unsigned and unstamped mid-century Zuni squash blossom necklace
Condition: Fine — see SCJ Vintage Condition Guide
Specifications:
- Wear scale: opera length — rests at the bust on most wearers and spans the upper chest
- Naja: 2" x 1 7/8"
- Blossom length: approx. 1 1/4"
- Beads: approx. 6 mm, strung on double-wire
- Total length (including clasp): 25"
- Clasp: hook and eye
- Weight: 111.8 grams
Gallery Note:
This mid-century Zuni squash blossom necklace is built around finely arranged snake-eye cabochons. The varied turquoise palette gives the piece a subtle polychrome rhythm across the blossoms and naja, introducing beautiful tonal shifts without overwhelming the refined, delicate stonework.
The bell-shaped blossoms are central to the Bernard Bowekaty attribution, as they are a recognized signature design in his documented work. The sawtooth bezels, tight stone placement, balanced symmetry, and restrained sterling structure reinforce this association. The ensemble keeps the focus on the turquoise spread while highlighting the precision of traditional Zuni cluster work.
The traditional seamed, bench-made silver beads are individually formed, displaying the slight organic variation prized by collectors of vintage Native American jewelry. While the current double-wire stringing is period-appropriate, professional restringing on foxtail chain could be considered to give this 111.8-gram necklace a smoother drape on the chest.
Hallmark & Maker Notes:
This necklace is unsigned, which is common for Zuni work of this era. The attribution to Bernard Bowekaty rests on the distinctive, hand-fabricated bell-shaped blossom forms with tiny turquoise settings framing each opening — a design element closely associated with Bowekaty’s mid-century Zuni work and repeatedly seen in secondary-market and gallery-attributed examples of his squash blossom necklaces.
Bernard Bowekaty was a Zuni Pueblo jeweler and lapidary artist, identified in gallery and reference records as active during the mid-20th century. Published references record him as born around 1927 and passed before 1980, and note that one of his specialties was jewelry using snake-eye turquoise cabochons. Hallmark references associate his signed work with back-to-back BB initials, sometimes followed by ZUNI.
Although this necklace is unsigned, its visual and technical language is consistent with Bowekaty-attributed Zuni work: dense snake-eye turquoise settings, floral cluster stations, a turquoise-set naja, hand-strung silver beads, and the distinctive bell/cone blossom drops with small stones framing each opening. The piece reflects the refined lapidary balance and rhythmic stone placement associated with classic Zuni petit point and snake-eye cluster work.
Because no signature is present, SCJ presents the Bowekaty attribution as a researched visual and technical attribution rather than a signed artist identification. The necklace is best understood as an unsigned mid-century Zuni snake-eye turquoise squash blossom necklace attributed to Bernard Bowekaty on the strength of its bell-blossom construction, cluster layout, and documented stylistic parallels.
✨ Collector inquiries are welcome. SCJ is open to thoughtful questions, documented observations, and new information that deepens the story of a piece. With permission, selected collector notes may be featured in our upcoming Collectors Circle Insights publications.
1. All items in our inventory are pre-loved vintage pieces, and even those described as in “excellent” condition may display very minor imperfections from previous ownership. We make every effort to provide clear photos of any visible irregularity so you can make an informed decision before making your purchase.
Each product description page includes the item's vintage condition classification and a Condition Guide to help you understand the overall condition of the silverwork and stones. Please note:
- The guide applies only to the silver and stones.
- Belt straps, bolo cords, and “throw-in” watches are not covered by the guide, but their condition is described individually on their product pages.
- Tarnish is not factored into condition ratings, as patina naturally develops with age and does not affect the integrity of the piece.
2. The measurements are given as close approximations, and slight variations may occur.
3. Every photo represents the exact piece you’ll receive, shown in its actual color and condition. While the jewelry itself is never altered, backgrounds are edited to ensure a clean, consistent display.
4. Because screens display colors differently, the exact shade of a piece may vary slightly from one device to another. If you’re looking for a piece to match an item you already own, we suggest viewing the product's photos on multiple devices for the most accurate assessment of color and overtones.
5. At Silver Cactus Jewelry, we are committed to honoring cultural integrity and accurately representing Indigenous art in accordance with the Indian Arts and Crafts Act. We carefully describe each piece in good faith, with complete transparency regarding signed or unsigned status, available provenance, and expert opinion. Attributions to specific artists or tribes are based on expert evaluation but are not guaranteed. Buyers are encouraged to make their own evaluations before purchase.
6. All jewelry is sold as-is. Buyers are responsible for ensuring compatibility with personal sensitivities (e.g., metal allergies).
7. Silver Cactus Jewelry’s liability is limited to the purchase price of the item. No additional warranties are expressed or implied.
Our Approach to Provenance
Every vintage piece carries a story that begins with its maker. Some are clearly signed and dated; others show only a softened hallmark, a sterling/.925 stamp, the place of production or tribal indicator
—and some bear no markings at all.
Evaluation of Unsigned, Unclear, or Unknown Marks
Pre-loved vintage jewelry rarely includes formal documentation. When hallmarks are unclear or missing, we look to the piece itself for insight into provenance and authenticity. Our evaluation may include:
- Partial or unknown marks (used as reference points for further research into tribes, families, or regional styles)
- Historical context
- Materials (stone, metal, findings, patina)
- Construction (handwork, joins, settings, finishing)
- Available reference materials
- Stylistic details (motifs, proportions, technique clues)
Attribution & Provenance Disclosure
Each piece is described in good faith and with careful attention to accuracy. We provide full transparency regarding whether a piece is signed or unsigned, any known or available provenance, and our informed professional assessment at the time of listing.
Attributions to specific artists, tribes, or mines are based on stylistic analysis, materials, construction techniques, historical context, and available reference material. In cases where hallmarks are unclear, partial, or absent, even recognized experts may reasonably differ in their conclusions. For this reason, all attributions should be understood as informed opinions rather than absolute guarantees.
Native American jewelry is a living tradition, and the learning process never truly ends. Our understanding continues to evolve through ongoing research and the exchange of knowledge with fellow collectors, scholars, artisans, and informed clients. This ongoing dialogue helps preserve accuracy, context, and integrity—ensuring we remain a trusted source of information rather than presenting any single interpretation as final.
Collectors who value this shared approach to learning are invited to join the Collectors Circle, where we exchange newly uncovered information, historical insights, and evolving perspectives on materials, makers, and regional traditions. This collaborative environment allows knowledge to grow responsibly and ensures that both collectors and researchers benefit from continued discovery.
We encourage collectors and enthusiasts to conduct their own independent evaluation prior to purchase. For a detailed explanation of our methodology, limitations, and guarantees, please refer to our Terms of Service.
For general questions, you may contact us at info@silvercactusjewelry.com.
A Word About Our Insurance Tag
Silver Cactus Jewelry pieces are vintage and one of a kind—often irreplaceable. To honor their history and protect your investment, each item is carefully inspected and secured with an Insurance Tag, ensuring it arrives as represented.
🛡️ Why the Insurance Tag Matters
- It guarantees your piece has been inspected prior to shipment.
- Protects your purchase during transit and for 30 calendar days from the delivery date, so long as the tag remains attached and unaltered.
- Simplifies returns when the tag is intact and secured, even in the event of damage.
⚠️ Important: Removing the Insurance Tag terminates the insurance and voids the return policy.
This safeguard preserves the integrity of rare collectibles while reinforcing our commitment to excellence and a client experience that meets or exceeds expectations. For detailed information about our insurance policy, please view our Terms of Service.
Once you are satisfied with your purchase, or after the return period has concluded, you may remove the Insurance Tag. In the unlikely event that any minor adhesive residue remains, a moist pad and jeweler’s cloth are included for gentle cleaning and light polishing.
For questions about your order, please contact us at support@silvercactusjewelry.com.
For Return Authorizations (RAs) or questions about returns, please review our Return Policy and contact us at returns@silvercactusjewelry.com.
For general questions, you can reach us at info@silvercactusjewelry.com.
